David Masi considers Chardonnay 3.0

by David Masi

Chardonnay is a strange animal in the United States. To some, it suggests the essence of classiness and comfort: with a glass of Chardonnay and some cheese, the world is good. Many beginning wine drinkers start with Chardonnay as they initiate their journey through the world of wine. For others, Chardonnay is a pariah: they take offense if such a wine would touch their lips. But whether you’re new to Chardonnay or feel that you’re totally over it, you cannot deny that something powerful is happening with this varietal of late, especially with new world producers.  Increasing numbers of adventurous winemakers produce this grape today in ways that make consumers wrinkle their brows and say, “This is a Chardonnay?”

Fresh Chardonnay grapes from Santa Ynez, California.

Winemakers can choose to employ any range of styles when working with Chardonnay. In fact, these stylistic choices often seem so radically different from one another that it hardly seems possible that all these different wines emerged from the same grape. Over the past several decades, the US market has experienced several waves of Chardonnay styles, all of which continue to be produced today.

Consider Chardonnay versions 1.o, 2.0 and 3.0

Version 1.0 Chardonnay resembles liquid gold. With a heavy-handed use of oak, this Chardonnay has gone through a process called malolactic fermentation to give it a thicker, more viscous feel in the mouth. The flavor profile on this style ranges more towards baked apple, caramel, buttery toast, vanilla, and popcorn. The more oak used in the winemaking process, the higher the price of the finished wine. Oak barrels cost money, which translates into higher bottle prices for wines produced in this style. These Chardonnays don’t generally pair well with food but are often enjoyed in cocktail party settings.

Version 2.0, which began to emerge around 1996, swung the pendulum to the other extreme. This trend leans towards using less oak to no oak. These Chardonnays feature a crisp, fruity flavor and a noticeable acidity. Some of these Chardonnays don’t even get close to a barrel during the fermentation process. Featuring a lighter straw color and flavors that are more green apples and tart citrus, this type of Chardonnay delivers a “clean” mouthfeel.

In my opinion (and in the opinion of others in the wine industry such as Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, wine columnists for The Wall Street Journal), several brands of compelling wines do this category justice, but others are bland and uninteresting. A few years ago, winemaker Dave Ramey–who’s ideas on wine inspire my deep respect and whose wines I feel are some of the best in the country–suggested that Chardonnay lacks the qualities needed to stand on its own and needs to oxidize in wood a bit to develop complexity. Even older barrels, long leached of their oak flavor, can provide the right environment for Chardonnay to develop and evolve into a complex wine, which is my favorite style. To be fair, there are a few sites in the world where Chardonnay 2.0 achieves a distinctive character, but they seem to me few and far between. A growing number of winemakers opt for a 3.0 style, which employs a judicious amount of contact with oak barrels during the fermentation period.

Experience the Possibilities with Chardonnay

Today, consumers have more choices than ever when it comes to this country’s most planted grape because versions Chardonnay 1.0, 2.0, and 3.0 are all produced and available today. Those in the know are no longer just looking for a glass of Chardonnay: they are looking for an expression of Chardonnay from a particular place. One can taste the world through very regional, vineyard designated wines. For example, Chardonnay from Chablis in France has a particular minerality and flavor of the sea that comes from its unique soils composed of fossilized sea creatures. Likewise, Chardonnay from the Central Coast of California displays an intense citrus and fruit character that announces its origin. The world of Chardonnay is wide and ripe for exploration.

The best approach for today’s consumer is to try some different Chardonnays. Since styles have a big range, search out different types and brands. If you have a wine shop in your area, talk to the people there: they can help with finding some different wines in a range of styles. Although it’s not always necessary or possible, one can spend quite a bit of money on some high-end domestic Chardonnays. For example, Marcassin, Kistler, and Peter Michael make versions that release around $75 per bottle, if you can even find them. That’s not to say you should buy these all the time, but it’s fun to try them out. Chardonnay averages between $12 and $35 a bottle, with a few falling above and below this price point. If you have not tried Chardonnays for a while, try some 3.0 versions. If you tend to migrate towards one style, think a little outside the box, do some experimenting and expand your horizons.

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[As a distributor with Uncorqed, David Masi represents select ultra-premium wine labels throughout the Pacific Coast wine regions as well as his own label, Montage Vineyards.]

– photo by Jeremy Ball